Let’s get it out of the way that I’m not pleased with this, although it is in no way the pattern’s fault. I messed up by thinking I could get away without a short torso alternation on a cropped sweater and my fabric being a rayon blend may be contributing to the length issue. On the plus side, I didn’t make a sloping shoulder alteration and the shoulders look pretty okay.
This is a pretty simple pattern, there isn’t much to say. The instructions were even more in depth than Colette’s usual offerings and I think this top is simple enough that I could have made it instruction free. It’s a very beginner friendly pattern. However, they do not have you stabilize the shoulders, but I did with some clear elastic just to safe.I do think the layout of the pattern pieces could have been better and saved me some paper, but it wasn’t a horrific paper hog.
Back to alternations, after seeing the way the neckband stuck out on some of these I’ve seen made up, I thinned out the neckband by half an inch as another reviewer mentioned doing.I was little worried it might look skimpy, but it seems in proportion to me. I apologize for the photo quality, you’ll need to trust me on this. If I make this again, and I will, I’d take an inch and half out if the length of the body of the sweater and draft bands for the sleeves so I don’t have to twin needle topstitch on this kind of material. I may also tighten it up a little bit in the future, the fit is loose despite me following the size chart.
I feel like this has the potential to be really cute and versatile, if I can get the proportions right, so I going to see about getting more sweater knits.
So about that Sorbetto I went to all the trouble of making bias tape for. It’s awful. Amazingly so.
I should have known this would happen. I’d tried and failed to make a Peony a few years ago, the bust darts were extremely off from where I needed them to be and I could never make a satisfactory alteration. This top has a similar issue, I can tell I need a FBA, despite Colette drafting for C cups and the end point of the dart is literally an inch above where it should be. I’m thinking I could probably fix that by lowering the whole dart, but honestly, I don’t want to. I’m kind of bummed and I’m not sure this shape of top is the best look on me, I don’t feel I carry off 60s insprired stuff well, I’m more of a 40s and 50s girl.
The swayback adjustment needed on this is ludicrous, I’m not even sure I want to attempt it. I normally need a sway back adjustment anyway, but this is much worse than things normally look. To be clear, the pattern went together fine, the fit issues seem to just be a conflict between my body and what Colette drafts for.
The one good thing to come of this is I got a chance to practice my french seams. They’re as easy and lovely looking as I remember. I’m think I’ll try a different top, prehaps Gertie’s Portrait blouse. I think going back to tissue fitting is in order. I still have plans for another Hollyburn and I think that might get me back in the sewing groove. I don’t know, I’ll trawl my pattern stash and see what speaks to me. I know this isn’t it.
I’m really ambivalent about this skirt, I wish I hadn’t rushed though the finishing, (it was finished at one am on the day I went home for xmas), but I also don’t think it’s a great shape for me. I am happy I finally sewed up the pattern though, I’ve had it for years. I made a straight 16 in this, even though my hips fall into the 14. I tried blending on a muslin and it was too tight across my belly. I think this fits better, although there are still issues.
The hem is… not good. Not only is it uneven, it keeps trying to flip up. I think I’m going to take it down and redo it in a different manner. I’m considering evening it out and then just serging the raw edge so I can do a single fold hem.
The invisible zipper is black, mostly because A.I was in a hurry and B. I had ordered black invisible zips in bulk a few years ago. I don’t think it looks too bad and the instructions Colette gives you for finishing the waistband over the zipper are worth the price of the pattern, IMO.It looks much more professional than handstitching your ends to the zipper tape and wasn’t too hard to execute.
There is one thing I haven’t seen mentioned very many places. The waistband notches, for the size 16 waistband at least, do not line up. It sewed up fine once I focused on lining up the raw edges, but it was irritating.
I may try this again in a fabric with a different drape, but then again I may not, there are so many patterns out there to try and this one was kind of disappointing, although that’s down to me.